Are you looking to progress your climbing abilities and break through a plateau? Or are you looking to build up some fitness for your next project this season? This intermediate plan is perfect for somebody that has a bit of training experience and is sitting around the 5.11/5.12 level.
This program builds on the foundational skills from the beginner level and introduces more advanced techniques such as heel hooking, dynamic foot placements, and interval-based climbing drills. The program will include two to three sessions per week, each lasting no more than two hours.
This intermediate program emphasizes footwork, energy system training, and climbing efficiency while also integrating a structured conditioning element. By the end of week 8, athletes should notice improved power, better efficiency on the wall, and the capability of handling longer, more complex climbing sessions.
The structure will follow a two-to-three session per week format, with each session lasting no more than two hours. The program will gradually increase intensity and complexity while providing enough time for recovery. Here’s a breakdown of the training plan:
Week 1-2: Technique Enhancement & Footwork Mastery
Week 3-4: Power & Efficiency Focus with Interval Training
Week 5-6: Advanced Footwork & Energy System Endurance
Week 7-8: Power, Endurance, and Climbing Efficiency under Fatigue
Additional Program Notes:
Rest & Recovery:
At least one full rest day between climbing sessions, and incorporate active rest days (yoga, swimming, or light cardio) for recovery.
Mental Focus:
As athletes progress, it’s essential to visualize time on the wall and plan for the climbing ahead. Focus on breathing and staying calm during high intensity climbing.
Nutrition:
Fuel your workouts with a balance of protein, complex carbs, and healthy fats to support muscle recovery and sustained energy. Aiming for 1.2-1.5 grams of protein per kilogram of body weight per day is a good target.
Tracking Progress:
Keep a climbing log to track the difficulties and volume of problems, how many sets an athlete can complete in intervals, and any key footwork improvements.
This plan was written in collaboration with Leif Gasch of SUBSTR8 Climbing Performance.
Mountain Training Center is an online hub for mountain athletes looking for both technical and physical training. Our coaches are leaders within their disciplines which include ski touring, splitboarding, rock climbing, mixed/ice climbing, trail running and more. In addition to training plans, we also offer technical training on our website www.mountaintrainingcenter.com