Are you a beginner climber? Somebody that has hit a plateau around that 5.10/5.11 range? Or have you been climbing for years but have never focused on training? Well... this plan is for you!

This program will focus on and emphasize the essential elements of climbing training, incorporating gym-based strength training, bouldering and movement technique, as well as energy system application. This plan is primarily focused around bouldering as that is the most efficient way to gain strength and power in sessions however there will be an optional day of rope climbing during the last half of the program.

The program focuses on steady progress and skill integration, ensuring a holistic development approach for the beginner climber. By the end of week 8, athletes should notice improved technique, strength, and endurance. The structure will follow a two-to-three session per week format, with each session lasting no more than two hours. The program will gradually increase intensity and complexity while providing enough time for recovery.

The 8 week structure is as follows:

Week 1 & 2: Introduction & Basic Techniques

Week 3-4: Refining Technique & Strengthening Core/Body Tension

Week 5-6: Developing Power & Technique under Fatigue

Week 7-8: Power, Endurance, & Technique Integration

Additional Program Notes:

Rest & Recovery:
Ensure at least one full rest day between climbing sessions, especially as the intensity increases. Active rest days with yoga, light cardio, or stretching will aid in recovery.

Nutrition:
To support muscle recovery, aim for balanced meals with sufficient protein (0.5 to 1.0g per lb of body weight per day). Aim to ingest 20-30g of protein within 30 min of each training session to aid in recovery and muscle growth. Include complex carbohydrates and healthy fats in meals before training sessions.

Mental Focus:
Taking time to visualize movements before each attempt, try and problem-solve on the wall quickly and efficiently, and work on remaining calm under stress.

This plan was written in collaboration with Leif Gasch of SUBSTR8 Climbing Performance.