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Ice and Mixed Climbing Strength Plan 8 weeks. Beginner to Advanced Intermediate.


Uphill Athlete by Steve House and Scott Johnston

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4.38 (61)


8 Weeks

Plan Description

This plan is ideal for beginner through advanced-intermediate climbers preparing for the winter climbing season. Climbers looking to start leading grade 4 and harder ice will realize a big boost in confidence that comes with increased ice-climbing-specific strength, especially in the forearms, shoulders, and calves.

This is a strength-focused eight week program and assumes that the climber has some basic fitness, including the ability to hang from two ice tools for a minimum of 10 seconds and complete 0-3 unassisted pull-ups on ice tools. You will need a selection of gym equipment and a pair of ice tools. This program involves 2-3 gym-based strength workouts per week and assumes that you will climb at an indoor rock climbing facility or be climbing outdoors a minimum of once per week.

This plan is based on scientifically sound training and a combined thirty years of professional endurance coaching experience and sixty years of world-wide climbing experience.

Tips: Rest when you are tired. If you miss one workout in a week, do not try to make it up, simply move on. If you miss more than two workouts in any one week then repeat that week. Do not combine this program with other strength training of any kind. This is meant to be a stand alone strength program and adding other strength work, even lower body, may have a significant negative impact on your recovery, and hence the positive effect of this training.

For detailed information and to understand how this plan is constructed, please consult our book, "Training for the New Alpinism" published by Patagonia Books. For specific questions about this training plan, or to send us your success story and be featured on our website email us at . Thank you your interest in our training plans. To be sure you are satisfied with your purchase, please leave your email during the checkout process so we can contact you

Thanks for becoming an #uphillathlete,

Steve House and Scott Johnston

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Training Plan Sample Week


Average Weekly Breakdown

Workouts Weekly Average Longest Workout
Strength x2
02:49:00 01:40:00
Other x1
02:00:00 02:00:00
Workouts Per Week Weekly Average Longest Workout
02:49:00 01:40:00
02:00:00 02:00:00

Training Load By Week

Uphill Athlete by Steve House and Scott Johnston

Uphill Athlete LLC.

What originally inspired us to write Training for the New Alpinism, and what inspires us to continue to share the things we’ve discovered through, is the information void when it comes to specialized training for endurance mountain sports. We have successfully demonstrated a more systematic approach, using proven principles, to help you improve both your chances of achieving your goals, and your long-term fitness and safety in whatever mountain sport you are practicing.

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This plan is protected by our Refund Policy and may, with the author's approval, be exchanged for a plan of equal value from the same author.

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