Ice and Mixed Climbing Strength Plan 8 weeks. Beginner to Advanced Intermediate.

Average Weekly Training Hours 04:48
Training Load By Week
Average Weekly Training Hours 04:48
Training Load By Week

This plan is ideal for beginner through advanced-intermediate climbers preparing for the winter climbing season. Climbers looking to start leading grade 4 and harder ice will realize a big boost in confidence that comes with increased ice-climbing-specific strength, especially in the forearms, shoulders, and calves.

This is a strength-focused eight week program and assumes that the climber has some basic fitness, including the ability to hang from two ice tools for a minimum of 10 seconds and complete 0-3 unassisted pull-ups on ice tools. You will need a selection of gym equipment and a pair of ice tools. This program involves 2-3 gym-based strength workouts per week and assumes that you will climb at an indoor rock climbing facility or be climbing outdoors a minimum of once per week.

This plan is based on scientifically sound training and a combined thirty years of professional endurance coaching experience and sixty years of world-wide climbing experience.

Tips: Rest when you are tired. If you miss one workout in a week, do not try to make it up, simply move on. If you miss more than two workouts in any one week then repeat that week. Do not combine this program with other strength training of any kind. This is meant to be a stand alone strength program and adding other strength work, even lower body, may have a significant negative impact on your recovery, and hence the positive effect of this training.

For detailed information and to understand how this plan is constructed, please consult our book, "Training for the New Alpinism" published by Patagonia Books. For specific questions about this training plan, or to send us your success story and be featured on our website www.uphillathlete.com email us at coach@uphillathlete.com . Thank you your interest in our training plans. To be sure you are satisfied with your purchase, please leave your email during the checkout process so we can contact you

Thanks for becoming an #uphillathlete,

Steve House and Scott Johnston

Sample Day 1
1:00:00
General Strength Week 1

Warm up (dynamic stretches 5 minutes total):
a) range of motion stretches
b) 2 arm hangs with fully extended shoulders
c) Full 360 degree rotation arm swings for 30 seconds per arm as in this video:
https://www.uphillathlete.com/shoulder-mobility/

then;
10x burpees
10x incline pull-up
30 second 360-degree arm swings.

You'll need a yoga mat or similar, a pull-up bar, a bench or chair, and two ice tools to do this workout.

To start we'll do a general strength workout which follows the training principle of increasing to more specific strength exercises after general strength.

All exercises should be done with an emphasis on perfect form and executed in a controlled manner.

Core routine: 1x through, 30 seconds between exercises. See attachment for explanations of exercises. A video of this routine is also available at:
http://www.uphillathlete.com/how-to-do-core/

Bird dog. 5x/side
Strict sit ups. 10x.
Windshield wiper. Straight legs. 5 to each side.
3 point hold. 5 seconds each side.
Kayaker 10x each side.
Push up or Knee-push-ups. 10 reps.
Hang leg raise, knees to pulled tight to chest. 10x.
Bridge 5 second hold each leg
Gymnast L sit. Try for 10 sec. (most people take 4-6 weeks to be able to get this)
Side plank 5 second hold on each side.

1x through the following routine
Up to 10 reps of each exercise.
Pull-ups. Do as many as you can up to 10 or until you first start to shake. Even if you just try to pull up, that's fine, try for three to five seconds.
During a 2 min break do 10x toe raises
Push-up or knee-push-ups. Do as many as you can up to 10
During a 2 min break do 10x toe raises
Bench or bar dips. Do as many as you can up to 10
During a 2 min break 10x toe raises


Toe raises: During the 2 min breaks between the arm exercises stand with toes on a block or step and do these in mountain boots. The progression should start with 2 feet and 10 reps for each set of toe raises. As you get stronger progress first to one foot with 6-8 reps and finally, as needed start to add enough weight so that you can manage only 4 reps

The last stage of the workout after the general routine above:
Ice tool hangs for 30 seconds, tools in both hands. Stop if you start to shake. Keep your shoulder muscles active, don't hang fully relaxed so that your shoulder is stretching out, this can cause injury.

Sample Day 6
2:00:00
Climbing

Climbing, indoors or outside. Aim to do 60% of the maximum number of pitches you could do in two hours assuming the pitches are 2 number-grades below what you can climb onsight.

Sample Day 13
2:00:00
Climbing

Climbing, indoors or outside. Aim to do 60% of the maximum number of pitches you could do in two hours assuming the pitches are 2 number-grades below what you can climb onsight.

Sample Day 21
2:00:00
Climbing

Climbing, indoors or outside. Aim to do 60% of the maximum number of pitches you could do in two hours assuming the pitches are 2 number-grades below what you can climb onsight.

Sample Day 27
2:00:00
Climbing

Climbing, indoors or outside. Aim to do one more pitch within the two hours of climbing than you completed last week. As before aim for pitches that are 2 number-grades below what you can climb insight.
A reminder: If you can find the right belayer, it's best to do these routes with 5 minutes rest between. You DO NOT have to climb the full two hours, just climb until you feel the first onset of fatigue that might just cause you to fall off your route. Make sense?

Sample Day 31
1:00:00
Specific Strength and Core intro

Refer to the Ice Climbing Strength Exercises 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B17gEKNZHYg

In the overall progression shown in the video; In this first workout you will find which "phase" your strength level currently is.

Warm up (dynamic stretches 5 minutes total):
30 seconds per arm:
Full 360 degree rotation arm swings
10x burpees
10x incline pull-up
360-degree arm swings.

Core routine: 2x through, 30 seconds between exercises. See attachment for explanations of exercises. A video of this routine is also available at http://www.uphillathlete.com/how-to-do-core/

drop the easiest exercises and add resistance where you are able or where a longer hold is possible.

Bird dog. 5x/side
Strict sit ups. 10x.
Windshield wiper. Straight legs. 5 to each side.
3 point hold. 5 seconds each side.
Kayaker 10x each side. 5lbs.
Push up or Knee-push-ups. 10 reps.
Hang leg raise, knees to pulled tight to chest. 10x.
Bridge 5 second hold each leg
Gymnast L sit. Try for 10 sec. (most people take 4-6 weeks to be able to get this)
Side plank 5 second hold on each side


Refer to the Ice Climbing Strength Exercises Video.

NOTE: If you can't use ice tools, use the ring progression.  

NOTE: The Ice Tool Hangs demoed in the beginning of the video: You should be able to hang from 2 tools with body weight for 20 sec and one tool with BW for 5 seconds before progressing to Phase 3.

Start with the easiest exercises in the progression. Do 10 reps of each exercise (10/side if needed). In the overall progression shown in the video; Find which "phase" your strength level currently is.

Do this by completing 8-10 reps in each exercise as you move up the difficulty scale. Make note of which exercise becomes too challenging for 8 reps in good control.

Sample Day 34
1:00:00
Specific Strength and Core #2

Refer to the Ice Climbing Strength Exercises

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B17gEKNZHYg

In the overall progression shown in the video; Find which "phase" your strength level currently is. Do this by finding the hardest one of these exercises that you can do 6 full controlled reps (6 each side).
That will be the Primary exercise (PE) you do in this workout.

The exercise that you found at one level below the PE or PE-1 will be your warm up exercise.

The next exercise up the difficulty scale from your PE will be PE+1 and what you target.

NOTE: As you gain strength, what was your PE+1 will become your PE.

If you are able to complete the most difficult exercises in the routine in perfect control for 6 reps then add challenge by wearing a weight vest.

WARM UP:
(dynamic stretches 5 minutes total):
30 seconds per arm:
Full 360 degree rotation arm swings
10x burpees
10x incline pull-up
360-degree arm swings
PLUS: 2x through
-Bird dog 8 each side
-3 point 10sec each side
-Kayaker x10 each side

WORKOUT:
Using PE-1 do 3 sets of 10 reps of this exercise. Do not go to failure or anywhere near failure. This is meant to wake all the muscles in the chain that you will be using in the PE so it should feel like a warm up and not exhausting.

Take 1-2 min between sets where you will also do the following;

Between the above sets do a set of the most difficult toe raise you can manage for 6 reps with full range of motion and moving slowly. Add weigh if you can do more than 10 single toe raises off the very front of the boot.

THE BIZ:
Using the PE do 5 sets of 4 reps (per side if appropriate) take a full 3 min sitting recovery between these sets.

CORE finale: 3 sets to failure
-Hanging leg raise at what ever level of difficulty you can manage.
-3 point hold to failure. If longer than 20 sec add a weight vest or plate on your back.

Uphill Athlete by Steve House and Scott Johnston
|
Uphill Athlete LLC.

What originally inspired us to write Training for the New Alpinism, and what inspires us to continue to share the things we’ve discovered through Uphillatlete.com, is the information void when it comes to specialized training for endurance mountain sports. We have successfully demonstrated a more systematic approach, using proven principles, to help you improve both your chances of achieving your goals, and your long-term fitness and safety in whatever mountain sport you are practicing.