Steve House's 5 Week Foundation for Rock Alpinists Training Plan

Average Weekly Training Hours 08:16
Training Load By Week
Average Weekly Training Hours 08:16
Training Load By Week

This training plan is for those who want a shorter-term training plan that prepares them for an alpine rock climbing objective, or to prepare for Steve House's 8 Week Advanced Rock Alpinist Training Plan.

The plan calls for 1 climbing day, 3 aerobic training days, and 2 strength training days per week. The focus of the plan is building general fitness that is capable of supporting good climbing technique. This plan will lead to improvements based your technical climbing ability and prepare you for the more taxing "Steve House's 8 Week Advanced Rock Alpinist Training Plan".


Is this plan right for you? This training program assumes you have the ability to run at a slow-to-moderate pace for 45 minutes and run or hike for a minimum of 90 minutes. The program assumes you can climb either indoors or outdoors one day per week. The strength training component is built so as to require minimal gear. A place for pull-ups and some free weights, such as dumbbells, kettlebells, or even an improvised bags of rocks will work.

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Sample Day 1
1:00:00
General Strength, minimal gear

Turkish Get Up
Split Bench Squat. (weight in hands or in backpack)
Push-ups
Box-step ups (weight in hands or in backpack)
Pull-ups
Goblet Squat (video link below)
Dips (box or regular)
Hanging Leg Raise. Knees to chest or legs straight.
Incline Pull-Ups

Drawings for correct form for all exercises are in Training for the New Alpinism, pages 208-221.

Sample Day 1
0:15:00
Core Routine.

Do the following Core Exercises for 10 second hold or 10 reps (5/side where applicable). 
Rest 30 seconds between exercises.
Strict Sit ups
Bird Dog
Windshield Wipers
Plank Pose
Kayakers
Hanging Let Raises
Bridges
Gymnast L-sit
Side Plank

Sample Day 2
0:45:00
Zone 2 Run

Aerobic Threshold run.
15 min warm up, Start out very easy and slowly build your pace / HR up to lower Zone 2 and holding in that zone for the duration.

Sample Day 3
0:45:00
Zone 2 Run

Aerobic Threshold run.
15 min warm up, Start out very easy and slowly build your pace / HR up to lower Zone 2 and holding in that zone for the duration.

Sample Day 4
0:15:00
Core Routine.

Do the following Core Exercises for 10 second hold or 10 reps (5/side where applicable). 
Rest 30 seconds between exercises.
Strict Sit ups
Bird Dog
Windshield Wipers
Plank Pose
Kayakers
Hanging Let Raises
Bridges
Gymnast L-sit
Side Plank

Sample Day 4
1:00:00
General Strength, minimal gear

Turkish Get Up
Split Bench Squat. (weight in hands or in backpack)
Push-ups
Box-step ups (weight in hands or in backpack)
Pull-ups
Goblet Squat (video link below)
Dips (box or regular)
Hanging Leg Raise. Knees to chest or legs straight.
Incline Pull-Ups

Drawings for correct form for all exercises are in Training for the New Alpinism, pages 208-221.

Sample Day 5
1:30:00
Long Zone 2 Run

Aerobic Threshold run. Can also be done as a hike.
15 min warm up, Start out very easy and slowly build your pace / HR up to lower Zone 2 and holding in that zone for the duration.

Uphill Athlete by Steve House and Scott Johnston
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Uphill Athlete LLC.

What originally inspired us to write Training for the New Alpinism, and what inspires us to continue to share the things we’ve discovered through Uphillatlete.com, is the information void when it comes to specialized training for endurance mountain sports. We have successfully demonstrated a more systematic approach, using proven principles, to help you improve both your chances of achieving your goals, and your long-term fitness and safety in whatever mountain sport you are practicing.