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Josh Wharton's 4 week Beginner to Intermediate Rock Climbing Training Plan


Josh Wharton

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4.31 (13)


4 Weeks

Plan Description

This is the ideal program for rock climbers who have not engaged in true organized training for rock climbing. This plan will help you build the skills, strength, and endurance necessary for improved rock climbing performance. We also provide useful tips, tactics, and tricks that are critical to taking your climbing to the next level.

Equipment: A climbing gym is mandatory, and it’s preferable, but not necessary that you have access to outdoor climbing as well.

Timing: Expect three hard weeks, followed by a one week taper designed to create a “mini peak” useful for a road trip or sending a project.

Summary: The program begins with lots of climbing. As a relatively new climber it’s critically important for you to build a movement base. If you were asked, “You have a left hand gaston. Where should your right foot go?” or “You have a right hand undercling, and want to reach far to the left. What foot position gives you longest reach?” Could you immediately and easily answer? Most people can't. So during this first week, and throughout the program there is going to be lots of climbing, so that you can begin to build a climbing movement vocabulary, that will eventually become intuitive while moving over stone. (With a left hand gaston a high right foot will generally be the best position for maximum reach. With a right hand undercling, a left foot back step, with the left hip twisted in towards the wall, will yield the biggest reach.)

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Training Plan Sample Week


Average Weekly Breakdown

Workouts Weekly Average Longest Workout
Other x6
10:45 hrs 6:00 hrs
Run x2
1:00 hrs 0:30 hrs
Day Off x1
—— ——
Workouts Per Week Weekly Average Longest Workout
10:45 hrs 6:00 hrs
1:00 hrs 0:30 hrs
Day Off
—— ——

Training Load By Week

Uphill Athlete by Steve House and Scott Johnston

Uphill Athlete LLC.

What originally inspired us to write Training for the New Alpinism, and what inspires us to continue to share the things we’ve discovered through, is the information void when it comes to specialized training for endurance mountain sports. We have successfully demonstrated a more systematic approach, using proven principles, to help you improve both your chances of achieving your goals, and your long-term fitness and safety in whatever mountain sport you are practicing.

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This plan is protected by our Refund Policy and may, with the author's approval, be exchanged for a plan of equal value from the same author.

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